Deadly

Mount Kilimanjaro can be deadly. Although figures for the number of deaths on the mountain each year are difficult to come by (perhaps because releasing them might hurt the tourism industry), the story of a recent death struck home for me. A 43-year-old Irish mountaineer was struck and killed by lightning a few days after we completed our expedition. Most deaths on Kili are probably from pulmonary or cerebral edema. So Ian McKeever’s death by lightning strike was reported in a couple of English-language Tanzanian newspapers simply because it was unusual.

 The Daily News reported that it was the first fatal lightning strike in 15 years. The Guardian reported the story this way:

Lightning kills tourist climbing Kilimanjaro

The Guardian Reporter, 4th January 13

A tourist identified as Ian Mc Keever (42) from Ireland died on the spot, after he was hit by lightning while climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, with four colleagues being injured.

According to information to the media by the Tanzania National Park (TANAPA) Public Relations Officer Pascal Shelutete deceased was with 21 fellow tourists climbing the Kilimanjaro Mountain through the Londorosi route in Siha district.

He explained that the deceased, died on the way while being rushed to Kibo Moir station for further help.

Shelutete added that TANAPA in collaboration with the deceased’s host tourist company were handling the matter including ensuring treatment of the injured.

Reached for more clarification on the incident, Kilimanjaro Regional Police Commander Robert Boaz said he had no information of the death, and promised to follow up the incident.

 I’ll get back to recounting my trek up Kili soon.

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Spicy

Spicy

There are many spice plantations outside Stone Town, Zanzibar, that give tours and tastings. Charlie was our guide at one. Among the spices he showed us was the vanilla bean, which grows up a supporting tree or stake as vine but then needs a horizontal support from which the bean pods dangle. These pods are not nearly ready for harvest.

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Day 1

Porters weigh their loads at the ranger station before beginning a trek. They are limited to carrying 15 kilos of supplies plus their personal gear. Mostly they carry the gear on their heads or shoulders, not like a backpack.

Porters weigh their loads at the ranger station before beginning a trek. They are limited to carrying 15 kilos of supplies plus their personal gear. Mostly they carry the gear on their heads or shoulders, not like a backpack.

The day began in sunshine at the Impala Hotel in Arusha with the loading of our duffels full of gear into the Land Rover. We drove a couple of hours to the “gate” to the national park. We registered and the porters brought their loads to be weighed. Porters are restricted to carrying 15 kilos (about 32 pounds) plus their personal gear. Our crew consisted of the guide, two assistant guides, a cook, a waiter, a camp manager and a dozen or so porters. That seems like a lot of people but there is also a lot of gear and fresh food to carry.

I would like to say our arrival at the park began well, but it didn’t. First, the total fees for foreigners to enter the park and camp and climb Kili is something like $500 or more per person for an eight-day expedition. Plus there are fees for the porters, cook and guides that we have to pay. (All these fees are scheduled to go up July 1.) We had prepaid the outfitter to cover all this but their bank transfer had not gone through the day before. Our lead guide asked if any of us had a credit card that could be charged there at the gate with reimbursement to come later. Although we had the means to help, it seemed unprofessional at the least, so we declined. It took an hour, a number of cell calls and some scrambling back in Arusha to get the fees transferred. By now it was raining pretty hard off and on and we still had to drive some miles to the trailhead. Then the battery in the Rover died and the vehicle had to be jump started. Then the windshield wipers didn’t work, either. Nonetheless, we headed out on the muddy road to our jumping off point, but we were stopped well short of the trailhead. The muddy road became impassable, even in a four-wheel-drive Land Rover. But the crew set up a table and chairs for us to use for lunch. I looked at some of the other trekkers. One had a Camelback water system like mine, but I noticed his hose was covered in insulation. I briefly wondered what I could do at this point to keep my water from freezing before it got to my mouth during our summit push. I would have several days to stew about this. Meanwhile, the Rover went back to pick up the rest of the crew and gear. With all the delays, we didn’t begin our trek until about 3 p.m. – and at about 7,300 feet above sea level short of the actual trailhead by several hundred feet vertical and about three or four kilometers.

And so our trek began rather inauspiciously.

Some of the next few hours were spent negotiating a slippery, muddy, puddle-laden road. After that, the real trail began. In places it was a steeper-than-stairs, grab-whatever-you-can climb up and down a muddy slope through a dense rain forest. At times, the trail became a stream bed for runoff from the mountain. Part way up we saw the only non-human mammals we would see the entire trip: a couple of shy colobus monkeys. As we hiked, the mud got everywhere. Then it got dark and the headlamps came out. I didn’t limp into camp at 9,200 feet until 7:45. A.J., with the benefit of youth and his athleticism, got to camp about an hour and half before I did. The first thing he asked me when I showed up was the location of the showers. I laughed out loud. Apparently A.J.’s guide – named Godlove, so help me – had told him there would be showers at the camp. We came to learn that Godlove had an unusual sense of humor. Elizabeth, Phoebe and Yiannis didn’t get to camp until sometime well after 8. We were all a little miffed because this first day had been pitched as a pretty easy walk. If it hadn’t been so muddy and slippery it might have been easier, but I would not have said “easy.” But the camp crew was wonderful. The tents were set up when we arrived, although mine had a broken zipper on the rain fly. The crew took our muddy gear and did their best to wash the mud off, even if we all knew in our hearts it would not dry by morning. Little did we know how rare dry gear would be the rest of the trip.

We had a dinner of soup, spaghetti noodles with a vegetable sauce, fish, and mango and avocado salad. One of the best meals of the journey it would turn out. I went to bed at about 11 already pretty beat up by the weather and the muddy climb in the dark. But between the Diamox and the exhaustion I slept soundly.

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Klimbing Kili

Phoebe, Elizabeth, Brad, Yannis and A.J. at departure.

Phoebe, Elizabeth, Brad, Yiannis and A.J. at departure.

My cousin Elizabeth organized an expedition to climb Mount Kilimanjaro as a way to celebrate her husband’s 50th birthday. Since I was staying with her in Dar es Salaam for the fall semester she asked if I wanted to come along. I figured I was already in Africa, and it would be a way for me to mark my own 60th birthday last year. Our excitement was only surpassed by our naivete.

Kilimanjaro is the world’s highest free-standing mountain, that is, a mountain that is not part of a range, like the Himalayas or the Rockies. Kili is a dormant volcano and is the highest point in Africa. It stands 19,341 feet at the summit. It is still snow-capped year round, but it is quickly losing its glaciers due to global warming. It is two degrees south of the equator, so technically it is summer in December, but that does not affect temperatures as much as it does seasonal precipitation.

After some considerable online research Yiannis and Elizabeth picked a company to be our provisioner and to provide guides and porters. They settled on an eight-day route that gave us the best chance of avoiding acute mountain sickness (AMS) that comes from too rapid an ascent and can affect anyone, even the most otherwise physically fit climbers. The route we would take is called Lemosho. It kind of circles part way around Kili before meeting up with other trails for the final climb to the summit. And because their children, A.J., 17, and Phoebe, 15, would be with us, we picked a departure date in December to coincide with their winter school breaks. My research showed that it’s best to climb to the summit the night of a full moon so you don’t have to rely as much on flashlights. In December the full moon was the 28th. So backing up from that meant we had to start our climb on the 22nd.

The day before our climb we began a twice daily regimen of Diamox to help our bodies adjust to lower levels of oxygen in the atmosphere at higher elevations. An American doctor based in Dar also told us that Viagra could help and we bought enough for the trip.

We flew separately from Dar to Arusha and Moshi because coordinated plane reservations were difficult to get. But the expedition company picked us all up and got us to the Arusha hotel from which we would depart in the morning. We then got some additional gear and advice from the company. For example, the sleeping bags I brought were not adequate and I got one from the company to use. They looked askance at my low-top Teva trail shoes, but when I said I was comfortable with my choice the company rep shrugged her shoulders. And my Columbia shell and fleece liner raised some eyebrows, but I also had a second fleece and a down vest. For my legs I had a pair of light poly long johns, wool ski socks, zip-off trail pants and wind/rain overpants. They scotched my gloves and gave me mittens. Also, the trekking poles I borrowed did not lock well, so I got another pair from the company. I was initially leery of poles, which I had never used before, but I came to rely on them for balance and easing down the steep slopes.

With that we were ready to set off.

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Sunset on the bay

Sunset on the bay

I’ve done my share of complaining about the heat and humidity (and lack of reliable electricity and my illness … well, the list can go on) in Dar es Salaam, but there are compensations, such as this view from the backyard.

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Teaching journalism

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I am standing with my co-instructor, Damas Ndumbaro, among students in our media law class. This is the largest classroom on the School of Journalism and Mass Communication campus, but we were originally assigned one all the students could not fit in and was unbearably hot. At first I moved the class outdoors, but the students then decided to move the class meeting time later so we were able to schedule this classroom.

I have completed my teaching assignment at the University of Dar es Salaam School of Journalism and Mass Communication. I co-taught three classes: media law, mass media and society, and newswriting.

Of course, I knew nothing about Tanzanian media law; what little I now know I learned from my co-instructor, Damas Ndumbaro. But I was able to talk to the students about the history of freedom of expression and the First Amendment in the hope that they later would be able to make their own mental comparisons with Tanzanian law and practice. This is of special timeliness as Tanzania is drafting a new constitution that may give more direct attention to and protection for freedom of expression.

For several weeks I was on my own teaching about media and society as my co-instructor in that class, Ayob Rioba, left to defend his doctoral dissertation at the University of Tampere in Finland, which he did successfully. What an amazing accomplishment for him. While he was gone I lectured on the history of media theory, which is what I would have done in my U.S. classroom, setting the groundwork for a deeper look at media effects later. I wish I had had more exposure to Ayob’s lectures, which were tied to his dissertation. I remember one class he was showing his Power Points and he quickly passed over a slide, but not before I think I saw that it was about Western ideas about post-colonial media development theory in Africa. I think it may have been critical of the West and I wonder if he clicked past it to spare a confrontation or possible embarrassment on my part, as I was the only foreigner in the classroom. But that is a conversation I would have liked to have had.

I co-taught the newswriting class with Njonjo Mfaume. He I and worked the closest together and his was the loosest structured of the classes. Although all the classes were conducted in English, not Swahili, in this class I more often found myself having to explain what I was saying either because the students didn’t understand some of the words I was using or because the examples I used were foreign to them. For example, in one lecture on interpretive newswriting I was talking about “Wall Street” and I realized all the students’ faces were telling me they had never heard the term before. So I had to digress and explain that Wall Street was both a real place and a shorthand way of referring to the financial markets. Also, some of the American media I referred to they had never heard of, such a Rolling Stone magazine. Perhaps that should not have surprised me. But for students who listen to music (that would be 100 percent of them), this a magazine I would think they’d like to know about. (Sadly, I have no evidence anyone looked it up online after I told them about it. But I can’t be too critical. My exposure to African music is dated to King Sunny Ade, who is Nigerian, not Tanzanian, in any case. Nonetheless I was a little surprised the students had never heard of him.) So this class even more than the others became a cross-cultural learning experience for both the students and for me. As far as the student newswriting goes, there is a lot of work to do, at least in English. Perhaps their writing and news judgment is better in Swahili, but I have no way of knowing. Having said this, I often have similar problems with native English speakers in my own classes in Oregon. Students want to be journalism or mass communication majors but they don’t regularly read newspapers or even magazines, either in print or online. Or if they do, they read sports or lifestyle/celebrity stories, but they do so completely uncritically. It makes me wonder why they think they want to go into media work.

My general concern with the classes was the lackadaisical approach some students took. My first exposure to this was the first two or three weeks of school when I would show up for a class but no or few students would be there. There were always excuses such as the need to move into the dorm, called a hostel here, or a slow bus or train from the hinterlands to Dar. But there was no sense of urgency to be in class when the semester started. The second and related example of this was the tardiness of students even once they had committed to a class. Students wandered in an hour or more late regularly. Apparently there is a joke in Tanzania about this “Africa-time” attitude, the punch line of which goes, “We’re already late, so why should we hurry.”

But overall, I think having an American presence, even for the few weeks I was there teaching, was helpful. Most of the students’ exposure to the Western culture is from movies or television, but the exposure is as often to the BBC, al-Jazeera or Bollywood as to anything from the U.S. I remember one student asking me, incredulously, “You mean there is no malaria in America?” Yes, I said, no one in the U.S. gets malaria, failing to mention that America is not a tropical country. But I did say that West Nile virus is now in the U.S. She also asked me about power outages, which sometimes are a daily occurrence in Dar es Salaam, indeed throughout the country. She wondered how often Americans lose power in their homes. I said never. Her jaw dropped. Then I corrected myself, thinking of Hurricane Sandy and worldwide distribution of images of a darkened lower Manhattan. I said almost never, certainly less than once a year, and always because of a storm or accident, not simply because of the power company’s failure pay its bills or corruption of officials or the breakdown of mission-critical components that don’t have backups. She was stunned, but the message I intended and hoped that she took away was that it was possible for Tanzania to do better.

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A tale of one image

The picture below is an image of Dar es Salaam as it came right out of the camera (a Canon G1X). I took it when I was taking off with my cousin for a visit in Zambia and my ill-fated (exactly the right word) trip to Victoria Falls.

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The next picture is the same image as the one above but with just a little processing in Adobe Camera Raw. It has been cropped, contrast has been boosted, a little noise reduction was used, and it was sharpened. That’s it. (It was shot at ISO 500, f/7.1 at 1/1250.) But the post-processing makes a big difference in legibility. And from the air, our eyes tend to discount the atmospheric haze that the camera picks up so well.

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At the center of the picture is the port of Dar es Salaam with its extremely narrow entry channel and the densely packed city center. At the bottom of the image is an area that is ripe for development when  in the next few years a bridge is built more directly connecting it to the city. In the upper right of the image is the peninsula on which many of the city’s embassies, ambassadors’ residences, the yacht club and other tony places are located. The water to the right of the peninsula is the open Indian Ocean, and to the left and above the peninsula is the island-protected bay on which the house I am living is located (but not on the peninsula proper).

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Sick at the falls

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The tribal name for Victoria Falls is “The Smoke that Thunders.” The Zambezi River produces considerably less “smoke” and “thunder” during the dry season and because of hydropower demands. When running full tilt after the rainy season the spray from the falls would have drenched me at this location, and the entire wall more than mile long on the right over which the river drops 354 feet would have been obscured.  This view is from Zambia. The Knife-edge footbridge on the left is also in Zambia but it is not the same bridge from which a girl jumped a year ago and her bungee cord snapped. The video of that incident became instantly famous. In the far background is Zimbabwe, from which a closer and wetter view of the falls is possible, but not as wet as the girl got.

I haven’t posted anything in a while because I’ve been sick. I’ve recovered, but at the time it was awful. Not least because I was  supposed to be enjoying exploring Victoria Falls in Zambia at the time. I took some photos, but it was no fun. The doctors’ best guess is that I had amoebic dysentery. I will spare the typical details, which you can read about here. Suffice it to say I became quite dehydrated and it would have been a perfect opportunity to get a colonoscopy. Well, maybe I didn’t spare the details after all. For one sleepless night I thought I was dying, the abdominal cramps were so bad. But after  I returned to Dar and the Swedish doctor at the IST Clinic dripped two liters of saline and Ringer’s into me, plus additional drugs. I got better very fast, although I still haven’t put back on the weight I lost after a week without eating. Not necessarily a bad thing. The only worry now is whether I have the strength to climb Mount Kilimanjaro, which I am scheduled to start in less than a week.

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Scuba diving

Joseph and Luis, the diving instructors, give Phoebe and me a refresher lesson before our Indian Ocean dive.

Just a 30-minute drive (on a day with light traffic) north of Dar is a resort called White Sands. One of the amenities at the resort is a scuba diving operation called Sea Breeze Marine. My cousin Elizabeth and her daughter, Phoebe, are avid divers. So, to burn off some Thanksgiving calories we decided to go diving. The last time I went diving was in 1994 in Fiji, but after renting our gear and an hour refresher course in the resort pool for Phoebe and me, we were ready to go. Our dive master was Joseph, a really buff African man, and the boat out to the site was crowded with tanks for 11 divers, plus Joseph. Also aboard were the boat skipper and two assistants. One of the really nice parts about diving with Sea Breeze is how much assistance the staff provides. All I ever had to carry were my weight belt, mask and fins. The staff set up and carried all the tanks, regulators and BCDs, even opening the valves before helping each of us into our gear. Most of the other divers were working on qualifying for their dive certificates. Five of us were North Americans and the rest were Germans. It took the hard-bottom inflatable boat about 20 minutes on a high-speed plane to reach the dive location, a site about 12 to 20 meters (roughly 39 to 66 feet) deep. After final instructions we all went in and began our descent. I initially had trouble getting down because I didn’t have enough lead on my weight belt and I had the beginner problem of keeping too much air in my lungs. But after Joseph signaled me to breathe out, I began to sink and swam my way down with some short stops to equalize the pressure in my ears.

Once on the bottom visibility was about 10 meters, and the colors of the sea stars (mostly purple) and corals (various) and fish (brightly multi-colored) exploded. I saw several sea shells the size of footballs. One brain coral (at least that is what I think it was) was the size of a VW beetle. But the highlight was seeing a bright green weedy scorpionfish, although I learned the name only after quizzing Joseph once we were back in the dive shack. This fish exactly mimicked the color and frilliness of a plant swaying in the Indian Ocean current. The underwater portion of our dive lasted 43 minutes. We might have had a little more time, but Phoebe’s gear had a leak and she nearly ran out of air. Fortunately, because of his efficiency, his experience and his breath control, Joseph had enough air for the two of them to share, although there was no free swimming for Phoebe while tethered to Joseph, and shortly thereafter the group of us began our ascent to a three-minute safety stop at 15 feet deep and then we surfaced. The only lasting problems for me were the blisters on both of my heels from walking on the hot sand to and from the pool and the boat.

To cap the day, we stopped at a nice Italian restaurant overlooking the beach and Indian Ocean just off the road back to Dar. The four of us, including John, Elizabeth’s husband who stayed by the pool while we dove, in keeping with the nautical theme, split a lobster salad. Then we each had a main course. I had a large fish of indeterminate species (catch of the day) in a white wine sauce for dinner. We also shared two desserts. All in, the meal cost about $25 a person without alcoholic beverages. Yum.

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Mangoes

The mango season has begun. The fruit is for sale citywide at sidewalk tables (as if we had sidewalks; usually it is hard tell where the walking path ends and the roadway begins). Two weeks ago a mango the size of a softball cost 1,000 TZ shillings (about 65 cents). Today the price is down to 800 apiece, and I am told will get to 500. Judging by what I saw driving out of town they should be free. The fruits covered trees everywhere like ornaments on a Christmas tree. There is a smaller type of mango grown here, too, but I have yet to try it. The skin on both the large and small mangoes grown in Tanzania remains green even when they are ripe. It is thin but leathery, like the skin on an avocado. The mango fruit is orange or yellow-orange and has the softness of a ripe peach, but with a somewhat smoother, less fibrous texture. The taste is just sublime mango. (Sometimes I get just the slightest hint of turpentine in the fruit from closest to the pit. The pits here are of the clingstone variety, so you want to avoid cutting too close to it.) And at school an eight to 10 ounce glass (500 shillings) of fresh and cool mango juice is a perfect mid-morning appetite and thirst quencher on these hot, muggy mornings.

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